Report a problem? 24. b. Surging breakers (Fig. :) $12 tip if you get all the answers correct I need help with geography oceanography lab homework. The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the. Three types of breaking waves include ( A) plunging breakers, ( B) spilling breakers, and ( C) surging breakers. University of Hawaii, 2011. -The waves have shorter wavelength just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. Sediment layer with larger particles on the bottom and finer particles toward the top. D. wind Wave steepness increases. d. they cause erosion down-stream of the longshore drift. 5.4. What is refraction? true. There are three types of breaking waves: plunging breakers, spilling breakers, and surging breakers. -When two waves that are 180 degrees out-of-phase interfere. Water waves are refracted as they move from deep water to shallow water. In general, if the bottom is very sloped, the resulting wave will be spilling. As waves approach a coastline they lose energy though because friction with the seabed increases. . destructive interference. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave A number of stages are involved: All rocks have lines of weakness; the sea and its waves use hydraulic action, abrasion and solution to erode along any lines of weakness. Wave sets coming from deeper waters refract as they come into shore, changing direction to match the shape of the coastline. Tsunamis look like walls of white water advancing toward shore and can cause great damage when they run up the beach and onto land. Select only one answer. The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to ________. Compared with a solar day, a lunar day is: d.very high high tides and very low low tides. What is an interference pattern? -Wave period is the inverse of wave amplitude. Wind speed, direction, and fetch all contribute to creating waves and swell. c. diaphragm d. larynx. The altering rate of erosion of hard and soft rock is known as differential erosion. What is the wavelength? Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called. b.are wider than summer beaches due to low energy waves during the winter. Wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. Waves converge on headlands due to wave refraction draw a wave that results from interference of solid and dashed waves straight line a tsunami might result from tectonic activity on the seafloor tides caused by ____ forces b/t the Earth and the ____ as well as the Earth and the ___. 5.4. What is a drawback of seawalls? Fig. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave amplitude 14. At the coast, a tsunami looks like a suddenly occurring high or low tide, which is why they are misnamed "tidal waves." The circular motion of water molecules. A. increases and its wavelength remains the same, B. decreases and its wavelength increases, C. increases and its wavelength decreases, D. increases and its frequency decreases, E. decreases and its steepness decreases. There is constructive interference between the lunar and solar tidal bulges during ________ tides. -Rogue waves. When I do it myself I get all the answers correct but I don't haveenough time to, Figure 9B-2 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig09B-2.png "The data for net primary productivity at Hydrostation "S" in the North Atlantic Ocean presented in Figure, Investigation 9B CHESAPEAKE BAY ESTUARY Objectives Chesapeake Bay, as seen in Figure 1, is the nation's largest and most productive estuary. calcareous ooze (CaCO3, plankton shells) Combinations of each type of wave often occur in a surf zone. Which plankton build a shell of silicia? principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth. The first waves formed by the wind on a previously flat water surface, The area offshore within which waves are breaking is called the. Ocean waves can be described by their period, wavelength, and height. A surf spot needs to be exposed to waves in order to have surf, so exposure to predominant swell direction is important. Alternating layers of hard and soft rock allow the sea to erode the soft rock faster, forming a bay but leaving hard rock sticking out, known as a headland. Required fields are marked *. If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? -The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. Destructive wave interference results in ___________. Coastal winds can cause upwelling or downwelling due to which of the following? 23. a. to trap sand in front of their house. What is the difference between a restaurant and a brasserie? 5.21). Spilling breakers form when fast-moving water at the top of a wave spills over slower-moving water at the bottom. Remains of ancient rocks of cosmic origin. b.at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean. a.at a density boundary within the ocean. Based on the graph, which of the following has the lowest temperature? If a coastline is all made of hard rock, then it will stay relatively firm and resistant to erosion and weathering, and therefore create a headland. 52. -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs, The distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs, What is the wave period? Waves converge on headlands due to: Definition. due to evaporation along the equator, the water in these currents has much, higher salinity than coastal waters or surface water in the center of the. The maximum tidal currents are reported ________. -the highest part of the wave As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________. The coastline is the boundary between the ocean and the land. The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to ________. Is Harlech Castle part of National Trust? a. The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the: Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. -The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water? (B) A sign at Haena Beach Park, Kauai, HawaiI, warns swimmers that rip currents can sweep swimmers out to sea. L1 is the wavelength of the incoming waves and L2 is the wavelength of the refracted waves. Energy travels as right angles to the direction of the vibrating particles in ____. The speed and energy of water in rip currents can be very dangerous. Where in an atom are neutrons, protons, and electrons located? -The waves have longer wavelength just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. (A) A warning sign explains rip current dangers and how to avoid them. A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. -Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. A. constructive interference B. wave refraction C. wave diffraction D. destructive interference E. wave reflection Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation? The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim. Why does the damming of rivers sometime contribute to coastal erosion? You live on an island in the Pacific. Make Print-Friendly. Which of the following is not a source of deep water in the ocean? b. An estuary formed from a flooded glacial valley is called a: An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have: two high tides and two low tides of nearly equal height daily. School Acadia University; Course Title GEOL 1003; Type. In terms of erosion protection from wave action, seawalls: Relative (local) changes in sea level might include: a.tectonic activity resulting in a regional coastline that is higher or lower. The horizontal distance between wave crest to crest is called the ____. -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point Choose the one best answer from the choices provided. A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least _____. Which of the following statements about wave period is most accurate? Fig. The time it takes for a full wave to pass a stationary object is called the wave: Definition. true or false . A shallow-water wave must form in water depth less than 100 meters. A) sea, surf . e.wave refraction. -The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact. Fig. Rogue waves are generated by destructive interference patterns of ocean swells. e.are wider than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter. Constructive interference results in larger waves while destructive interference produces: Large coastal storms such as hurricanes initially cause all of the following except: Among the physical factors that affect the magnitude of a gravitational force between two objects, which is most important? HELP PLEASE! As waves approach the coast, they refract in shapes that mirror the coastline. A rip current is strongest at its neck, where the currents merge and flow back to sea through a deeper channel (Fig. These differences in energy can affect the shape of the coastline. -The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the ____. Both the angle of incidence and the angle of reflection are measured from a normal line, which is a hypothetical line perpendicular to the shoreline. As waves move from deep to shallow water, the wavelength decreases (L1 > L2). Wave energy is focused on headlands due to wave refraction. Eddies typically spin off of larger ocean current systems; they can stretch for hundreds of miles and last for months. Waves are the result of disturbance of the water surface; waves themselves represent a restoring force to calm the surface. Fossilized remains of ancient marine life. speed of a deepwater wave is proportional to _________. -Havoc waves -Wave refraction at the headland increases deposition at the headland and causes erosion in adjacent bays. Of the following waves, which one has the deepest wave base? C. gravity wave The waves touch bottom. -Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim. Why do ships at sea tend not to notice tsunamis? Deep ocean circulation is driven primarily by __________. Clay Minerals An area that experiences diurnal tides will have ________.
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